Count the number on your plate before leaving the room: Ground pork, bamboo, ginger, shitake mushrooms, and soy sauce balls rolled in glutinous rice and steamed for half hour. The individual kernels of rice perk up like the gentlest kitty shug, and the bamboo gives the pork the “gabba gabba” quality so essential in Chinese food. In fact, we think “gabba gabba” gives Umami a serious run for the money.